“Who was the last independent Nawab of Bengal?”
The question reverberated in my mind as I stood perplexed at Baharampur Station.
Hazarduari Palace/ Image: Wikipedia
After 5 long years.
It was not until I stepped down from the train that I realized how much I had missed this place.
Murshidabad, where history breathes in every lane, every piece of land, the Bhagirathi that flows by , and the ruined ancient mansions that lay by its sides.
It stores the old epic stories of the king, the betrayal, the war, the defeat, timeless plots that made many a novels and films ageless.
Murshidabad – the land of myths, where every house has stories to say. Where the India’s independence was snatched away by the East India Company, at the battle of Plassey. Where the last independent Nawab of Bengal was betrayed by his trusted general. Yes, this is the land on which Siraj Ud Daula treaded. Whose defeat at Plassey started off the 200 years old saga of the restless movements for independence.
Imambara
Baharampur happens to be the District town of Murshidabad. But Murshidabad’s main attraction lies in Lalbagh, where lies the Hazarduari Palace.
Hazarduari, the famed palace that was built by Duncan McLeod in 1837 for Nawab Najim Humayun Jah, descendant of Mir jafar. Hazarduari – means the palace with a thousand doors. Ita has a thousand doors of which 900 are real. They say it was built after the previous palace-(the original Hazarduari) the residence of Siraj Ud Daula’s family – was flooded by the Bhagirathi. It must be said that Murshidabad is named after Murshid Quli Khan an ancestor of Siraj and the first of the Nawabs. Hazarduari boasts of a museum that has a rare collection of paintings, portraits, armoury, and a very, very rare collection of books inaccessible to the public. Along with these are beautiful works of Ivory. Hazarduary will leave you in awe by the sheer grandeur.
Parallel to the North face of the Hazarduari, stands the Nizamat Imambara, perhaps the largest Imambara in the country, built in 1847 by
Nawab Nazim Mansoor Ali Khan Faredun Jah, son of Humayun Jah. The Imambara opens for the public only during Id.
Katra-Mosque
The other attraction includes the Katra Masjid, built by Nawab Murshid Quli Khan in 1723-24, the Katra Masjid is unique . The late Nawab’s cemetery lies under the staircase. The Katra Masjid is huge and leaves you in awe with its domes and minarets. Coming out of Katra Masjid, you are bound to be reminded of the unique history of Bengal where a Nawab wants himself to be buried under the stairs so that his sins wears off with the dust of the feet of the pilgrims.
Khosbagh is another important tourist spot. The Khosbagh cemetery, where Siraj’s family had been buried. Nawab Ali Vardi Khan- Siraj’s grandfather,Ali Vardi’s mother, Siraj Ud Daula and his wife Luftannesha were buried here.
Apart from these, Katgola Palace- the garden palace of Raja Dhanpat Singh Dugar and Lakshmipat Sing Dugar and their famous Adinath Temple is a big attraction. The intricately designed Jain temple leaves you stunned.
There are many other notable places, like the Nasipur Palace, the Jahan Kosha Canon, the Jafargunj Cemetary, and the cemetery of Kaleja Begum.
Moti Jheel
But , you must see Moti Jheel. It lies south of Lalbagh and was excavated by Nawazesh Mohammad, husband of Ghusseti Begum. In the palace adjoining it, Lord Clive celebrated the acquisition of the Dewani of Subey Bangla( Bengal, Vihar and Orissa) and Moti Jheel was also the home of Warren Hastings when he became the Political President at the Darbar of Nawab Nazim. Moti Jheel was often called Company Bagh. Due to being it was under the East India Company.
In Baharampur, take an evening walk around Lal Dighi and reflect what and how were the times when Bengal was governed from Murshidabad , a vast,united Bengal.Unique is History. It changes everyday. Fortunate are those people whose memories remain. Like Ali Vardi’s, or Siraj’s. But what what about those they ruled? For that, again, we will hit the streets and bring out histories from dingy alleys. But that’s another day. For now, let’s reflect!
P.S: For Murshidabad, you may board Sealdah – Lalgola Passenger or the Bhagirathi Express. You will get good lodging facilities at Baharampur.
Tags: Murshidabad Weekend Tour west bengal
